Rick Owens reasserts the codes that earned him a cult following

Fortunately for Rick Owens, the rain clouds in Paris cleared simply in time for his Spring/Summer time 2023 trend present. Owens named the ladies’s ready-to-wear assortment Edfu, after the Egyptian temple alongside the west financial institution of the Nile River, and Palais de Tokyo—the standard location for Rick Owens exhibits—served as an acceptable venue, with its towering Artwork Deco columns and staircase serving because the backdrop. Simply because the present began, the fountain that stands within the middle of the courtyard erupted, and the fashions walked out, utilizing its edges as their runway.

In his present notes, Owens acknowledged, “In my youth, Egypt had all the time been a setting of the morality tales I had discovered in Catholic Faculty… and within the silent film books in my dad and mom’ basement, that includes Cecil B. DeMille’s biblical epics and films starring Theda Bara, a creature dressed as an unique, historic femme fatale who was initially born Theodosia Goodman in Cincinnati, Ohio.”

Owens translated photographs of Bara posing for French artist Gustave Moreau into immaculate robes, with voluminous tented skirts made from recycled tulle known as Econyl, which is made with plastic retrieved from the oceans and landfills—or because the present notes discuss with them, “a 700-million-year-old jellyfish.” Owens used the jellyfish silhouette in bell-shaped jackets and translucent leather-based robes. Dyneema, a patented fiber that’s reportedly the strongest on this planet, served as gridding on clothes.

There’s one thing about Rick Owens that provides the model a substantial cult following. Possibly it’s the moody, luxe, goth vibe, the key materials codes, or that black dominates most of his items. There’s even a sort-of-secret Rick Owens society on Discord known as Rick Owens Discord, or ROD for brief. Doc got down to see what’s on the minds of the designer’s followers after the present ended. “I really feel Rick is about couture, black, pops of coloration, form-fitting, shoulders, he’s all the time received some superb shoulder work occurring,” one mentioned. “Physique contouring work, he suits issues to a silhouette. He’s all the time pushing the field in relation to his work.”