From Prada making PPE and the Black Lives Matter rebellion, to Rihanna’s iconic Savage sequel, Vetements’ doppelgängers, and North West’s Paris Style Week debut
From begin to end, 2020 has been a wild trip. When it got here to style, we began the yr seeing February’s style season minimize brief, as editors fled Milan, earlier than the business, together with the remainder of the world, floor to a halt, as we hunkered down at house within the face of worldwide lockdowns designed to cease the unfold of the coronavirus.
Within the months that adopted, college students switched studios for his or her bed room and set their uni work apart to make scrubs, because the likes of Burberry, Prada, and Pyer Moss joined them in making much-needed PPE for medical professionals in every single place. Footwear have been switched out for sweatpants, which have barely been taken off within the final 9 months – and certain received’t be for at the least a superb few extra.
By the point June rolled round, style confronted a reckoning, because the Black Lives Matter motion gained mainstream momentum and infinite inequalities and failings have been delivered to the fore. Black squares and messages of solidarity have been posted and donations have been made – however solely time will inform if the business makes good on its phrase of ‘doing higher’.
“Nonetheless powerful 2020 may need been, there have been additionally moments that reminded us of style’s energy to encourage”
Nonetheless powerful 2020 may need been, there have been additionally moments that reminded us of style’s energy to encourage. With the Met Gala first postponed after which cancelled, Excessive Style Twitter set about taking issues into the digital sphere, staging their very own URL event online.
Style Week itself additionally moved onto the web, as editors world wide switched out the FROW for his or her sofas, and the likes of Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada, Charles Jeffrey, Gucci, and Collina Strada imagined daring new methods of presenting their collections. TikTok, because it tends to do, additionally spawned numerous tendencies and style challenges that united us throughout a time after we’ve by no means been extra alone (in truth, you’ll be able to see a lot of them within the gallery above should you’re so inclined).
Together with Rihanna’s very Savage sequel, John Waters’ flip because the face of Saint Laurent, Raf and Miuccia’s first joint show, and the second Supreme’s $8 Oreo reached dizzy resale heights to the tune of $17,000, we’ve rounded up a number of the most talked-about style moments of 2020.
MARGIELA DOC IN HIS OWN WORDS LEAKED ON PORNHUB
Pornhub has been on the radar loads this yr: the positioning provided free premium memberships at first of the pandemic, banned American’s who didn’t vote from utilizing the positioning on Election Day, and deleted all unverified videos after receiving backlash for non-consensual content material. Unexpectedly delving into the style world, documentary Martin Margiela: In His Own Words, was leaked onto the site. The film – which doesn’t characteristic any X-rated scenes, btw – unpacks Martin Margiela’s inspirations and future in style, and launched every week after the leak. Whereas we doubt a Margiela x Pornhub collab is within the works for subsequent yr, at this level we wouldn’t even be shocked.
THE BLACK IN FASHION COUNCIL LAUNCHED
Based within the midst of the Black Lives Matter protests by Teen Vogue editor Lindsay Peoples Wagner and PR specialist Sandrine Charles, the Black In Fashion Council is devoted to advocate and safe the development of Black individuals working within the business. The initiative additionally constructed an equality index rating for manufacturers, with the likes of Glossier, Calvin Klein, and Depop having already signed up.
BIFC wasn’t the one initiative devoted to creating style extra inclusive this yr nevertheless. Others pushing for a fairer, extra various business included Aurora James, who launched the 15 Percent Pledge, Sharon Cuter of Pull Up For Change. Learn extra in regards to the pioneers pushing issues ahead here.
SUPREME DROPPED THE FUCKBOY’S DREAM COOKIE
Lengthy earlier than Lady Gaga’s Chromatica Oreos took over Twitter feeds, Supreme collabed with the model to drop the dream cookie for fuckboys in every single place. Releasing alongside the label’s SS20 assortment, the crimson, logo-stamped Oreos bought out immediately – and whereas they could have retailed for $8 formally, costs skyrocketed to $17,000 on resale websites. Truthfully: LOL.
BURBERRY, PRADA, AND MORE HELPED IN THE FIGHT AGAINST COVID-19
Within the earliest days of lockdown, when it nonetheless felt too scary to go outdoors and a night’s leisure consisted of bleaching the door handles for the 4,786th time that day, a lot of style turned its consideration to serving to out the place it might within the pandemic. For the likes of Prada and Burberry, that meant turning its factories over to making PPE, whereas Gucci provided up its Instagram to the World Well being Organisation, who interrupted scheduled broadcasting and used the platform to amplify its very important messages. Elsewhere, in New York, Pyer Moss’s studio became a coronavirus donation centre which helped provide medical professionals within the metropolis – which, on the time, was the epicentre of the outbreak because of Donald Trump’s sometimes idiotic choices.
MICHELE LAMY WORE RICK OWENS’ DISMEMBERED HEAD TO PFW
In different style moments now we have no clarification for, Michele Lamy wore an all-black ensemble with a life-sized version of Rick Owens’ head to his AW20 presentation in Paris – style romance at its best. The top was created by sculptor Douglas Jennings, whose work seems in Owens’ shops world wide. Fortunately for us, the second was memorialised through a particularly surreal picture of Lamy and 90s icon, “Yeah!” singer Usher Raymond.
HARRY STYLES BECAME VOGUE’S FIRST MALE COVER STAR
This may increasingly have been the yr all of us stayed indoors, however that doesn’t imply there weren’t some main style moments. Living proof: Harry Styles on the duvet of American Vogue, and though he made historical past because the title’s first male solo cowl star, it was his outfit that actually received individuals speaking. Wearing a frothy blue tulle robe from Gucci’s AW20 present, the “Watermelon Sugar” singer sparked a web based debate about masculinity, gender, and the privilege afforded to white, cisgender males relating to moments like these. You may learn our tackle the dialog here.
RIHANNA BLESSED US WITH A VERY SAVAGE SEQUEL
2020 may need been a shitshow of a yr, however fortunately, Rihanna swooped in to salvage it – for a few hours at the least – together with her follow-up to the Savage x Fenty extravaganza of 2019. With the likes of Bella Hadid, Lizzo, Indya Moore, Paloma Elsesser, Paris Hilton, and plenty of, many extra on the line-up, the show was a celebration of range, music, and style (duh!) and hammered house Ri’s place as queen of the lingerie world. Victoria who?
A GLITTERY STRAWBERRY DRESS TOOK OVER THE TL
Summer time 2020 belonged to Lirika Matoshi’s strawberry gown, which took over social media feeds in every single place: from Instagram and Twitter, to TikTok’s FYP, there was no escaping its glittery pink frothiness. A revolt in opposition to gray tracksuits? An extra evolution of the cottagecore aesthetic? Or TikTok’s notable impact on how we store? For those who’re nonetheless on the lookout for solutions, learn our investigation into the sudden viral fame of the gown here.
RAF MADE HIS DEBUT AT PRADA
It’s onerous to consider that the news Raf Simons was heading for Prada dropped in February, given this yr has blurred into an infinite chasm of time. Whereas COVID-19 may need meant his first present alongside Miuccia regarded very completely different to how we imagined again then, that didn’t imply the 2 powerhouses didn’t ship an iconic collection – stuffed with ‘Prada-isms’ – down the runway for SS21. Additionally taking over new roles this yr have been Kim Jones, who was announced as creative director of Fendi womenswear, and Matthew Williams, who joined the Givenchy fold. Who stated style was slowing down, huh?
STUDENTS USED THEIR SKILLS TO MAKE PPE
The coronavirus pandemic may need introduced the various failings of society into sharper reduction, nevertheless it additionally reminded us of the facility of group, as individuals rallied round doing what they may to assist these in want. Amongst them have been the style college students from establishments world wide, who set down their work and used their skills to make protective equipment together with scrubs and masks for important employees.
KENZO TAKADA PASSED AWAY
Style wasn’t with out its losses because of the coronavirus this yr. In October, Japanese designer and founding father of Kenzo, Kenzo Takada, passed away due to complications from COVID-19 on the age of 81. Different names passing from the virus included the president of Longchamp and inventor of the Le Pliage bag, Philippe Cassegrain, and luxurious Italian shoe designer Sergio Rossi.
FRED PERRY (UNSURPRISINGLY) DENOUNCED THE FAR RIGHT
After shutting down a collection of individuals complaining about the diversity featured on its IG account, Fred Perry denounced Far Right US members of the Proud Boys who had adopted their iconic polo shirt as a uniform. Deeming the scenario “extremely irritating”, the British label additionally halted manufacturing of the black and yellow high indefinitely within the US and Canada till its affiliation with the group ends. The alt-right org has additionally taken up carrying kilts made by the LGBTQIA+ owned firm, Verillas, which determined to counteract the scenario with a donation to the NAACP.
THE BLACK LIVES MATTER PROTESTS
Within the wake of the homicide of George Floyd by the hands of the police, Black Lives Matter protests unfold world wide. As individuals took to the streets to demand justice for Floyd and others like him, and name for an finish to the brutality proven by these employed to guard and serve residents, pictures of American cities in flames flooded social media throughout the summer season. Through the rebellion, a lot of high-end shops have been looted – a authentic type of protest – with Alexander McQueen, Chanel, and Louis Vuitton amongst them.
Whereas some stayed silent, others were more vocal, with Marc Jacobs’ exhibiting his help for the motion by posting {a photograph} of his graffitied LA retailer on Instagram alongside a message studying: “Property could be changed, human lives can’t.” Style confronted its personal reckoning within the days that adopted, as individuals known as out the systemic racism that the business is constructed on, and numerous manufacturers pledged to “do higher”. Time will inform whether or not they make good on their guarantees.
BEYONCÉ DROPPED BLACK IS KING
Again in July, Queen Bey released Black is King, a visible album celebrating Black resilience and tradition, written, produced, and directed by Beyoncé herself – which got here at a pertinent time, following a summer season of BLM protests in response to the homicide of George Floyd. When the information got here, there was actually no query that the album would include some serious lewks – with the singer stepping right into a Marine Serre crescent moon bodysuit, a brown cow print look courtesy of Riccardo Tisci at Burberry, and a black feathered look by Saudi model Ashi Studio, which allegedly took 70 hours to make (to not point out the second she matched with Blue Ivy in rainbow SS20 Mugler). Simply what we would have liked, tbh.
HOOD BY AIR MADE A COMEBACK
After a hiatus following its AW17 present, Hood By Air made its long-awaited return. In accordance with Shayne Oliver, the model is able to disrupt the business as soon as once more by exploring the that means of ‘luxurious’ style whereas inviting younger BIPOC creatives to affix the home. Up to now, it’s launched the H13A assortment, celebrating 13 years of the label – which was seen modelled by Rosalía on IG. We’ll be (impatiently) ready for extra to return.
JOHN WATERS FRONTED A FASHION CAMPAIGN
One other yr, one other purely unpredictable face of Saint Laurent. This yr noticed John Waters – the king of all issues camp and trash – starring in the label’s AW20 campaign alongside Lenny Kravitz. Lensed by David Sims, the Pink Flamingos director wore a double-breasted swimsuit jacket over a polka dot high, with black sun shades, and his signature skinny moustache. Okay, it’s positively no Keanu Reeves, however we’re not complaining.
FAST FASHION REPORTEDLY FUELLED CORONAVIRUS CASES IN THE UK
Simply once you thought quick style couldn’t get any worse, enter: 2020. As COVID circumstances soared in Leicester, it was reported that Boohoo’s factories were partly to blame. In accordance with a report from Labour Behind the Label, the corporate skilled 44 per cent progress all through the pandemic, whereas employees have been compelled to proceed working in its low-ventilated, non-socially distanced manufacturing facility – or danger shedding their jobs. Whether or not Boohoo was behind the spike in circumstances or not, it’s clear that in 2021, modifications desperately must happen.
THE MET GALA TOOK PLACE ON… TWITTER
As this yr’s Met Ball joined the lengthy checklist of style occasions cancelled on account of coronavirus (RIP), Excessive Style Twitter determined to take matters into their own hands. Gathering up younger creatives world wide, the style stans resurrected the primary Monday in Could digitally – filling up Twitter feeds with moodboards, DIY variations of celebrities’ previous Met Ball ensembles, and their very own tackle seems for the occasion. Appears just like the esteemed Anna Wintour invite isn’t as necessary as we thought.
NORTH WEST PERFORMED AT PFW
It’s been ten months, and we nonetheless haven’t actually processed this one. This previous March, North West made her rap debut on the impromptu AW20 Yeezy present in Paris. The six-year-old wore Kanye’s signature athleisure put on and sang lyrics like, “ my title is Northy,” and, “What are thoooose?” Positive, Kanye was comfortable, however maybe because of this 2020 was cursed?
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER RETIRED FROM FASHION
French designer Jean Paul Gaultier threw the most important style occasion of the yr for his final Couture show. With style greats from Christian Louboutin to Nicolas Ghesquière, and (supposedly) Martin Margiela himself sitting within the entrance row of the Théâtre du Châtelet in Paris, the hour-long present was full of references to Gaultier’s archive and honoured 50 years of his raucous Haute Couture line. As for the runway, it started with Karlie Kloss letting Issa Lish out of a coffin, which was then carried out by a gaggle of male dancers, and adopted up with fashions together with the Hadid sisters, Winnie Harlow, Paris Jackson, and the designers previous muses, Rossy de Palma, and Beatrice Dalle – who smoked a ciggie as she went – making their manner down the runway. Legendary.
A BUNCH OF DÖPPELGANGERS WALKED AT VETEMENTS
In January, Vetements requested us to query superstar tradition at PFW – sending celebrity impersonators down the runway as an alternative of fashions. On the line-up have been the likes of Naomi, Mike Tyson, Angelina Jolie, Kate Moss, and Snoop Dogg. Whereas the chaos clearly drew focus from the gathering, the present created a memorable discourse on the value of celebs within the business. We spoke to a number of the famous-ish lookalikes here.
THREE CURVE MODELS MADE HISTORY AT VERSACE
Jill Kortleve, Precious Lee, and Alva Claire made historical past at Milan Style Week because the first three curve models to walk for Versace at its SS21 present. Whereas their inclusion reveals the model is transferring ahead in the direction of physique range, there’s nonetheless a lot work to be achieved relating to representing a variety of our bodies in style. We’re wanting ahead to seeing extra manufacturers step up in 2021.